It’s easy to look at men’s fashion week each season and well, laugh at some of the eccentricities. To quip, furry bed slippers, teddy-fuzz top coats andactual bowl cuts appeared on the runway in London, Paris and Milan for Autumn/Winter 2016.
Far from the kind of fashion trends stylish men will be adopting in 2016, these artsy displays are just that: to be observed but never worn in the real word (unless looking like a life-size Muppet in pyjamas is the style you’re going for).
However, we’ve uncovered five brands that showcased key men’s suits at New York fashion week. The best part? The contemporary tailoring and on point accessories are both wearable and stylish. And can be adopted into your executive style arsenal right now.
This tailored look from Mike Rubin’s Krammer & Stoudt Autumn 2016 collection awakened the dandy of German artist Markus Lüpertz, but with a Western twist, which saw plush grape jackets and velveteen take a back seat to grey shades and rugged fabrics such as tweed.
But the finer details remained true to the artist’s muse. Styled with a plaid shirt – in a navy-black-grey blurred ombre check, a silk flat tie anchored the flecky two piece suit. Note the shorter jacket and cropped trouser for a contemporary edge for the office. And black patent leather dessert boots offered a fresh take on the classic derby; a large canvas-leather trim tote another welcomed style update on the stuffy, boxed briefcase.
Hvrminn designer Minn Hur’s reimagining of World War II marched on for the brand’s autumn collection. Not a slick hair out of place, the sartorial lineup – an enlistment of soft traditional tailoring – offered pieces inspired by Forties’ military garb – neutral suits and top coats, just like this dark mulberry double-breasted number with horn buttons and sprawling lapels.
The sharp shouldered coat masked a more relaxed suit in charcoal underneath; a subtle white pinstripe chalking up both jacket and pant and even the tie, for a tonal office ensemble. The neutral palette defied the adage ‘no brown in town’, enforced by matching patent leather Derbies (not military boots) with a modernised, elevated sole.
Scandinavia-met-Japan with the latest apparel offering from men’s bag maker Uri Minkoff. Professionally minimal, lapels were thin and neat with little appendages on the flannel top coat in smoked out grey. The clean colour palette didn’t sway much from neutrals; a sandy crew neck sweater doing away with a cumbersome shirt and tie, adding light and shade under a slouchy two-piece suit in faded black.
Tapered (and short) trousers exposed the mankles but were cut elegantly, making them a sharp pant for the office.Just add socks for workplace etiquette. The only other office no-no? Minkoffs elevated blue slippers. Change these for penny loafers or a chunky soled Derby to complement the contemporary tailoring.
Who said prints don’t work at the office? We already know that wearing colour to work increases the chances of a pay rise and promotion, so a tasteful print – that’s coloured – will put you ahead of the office fash pack. Michael Maccari laid down a new take on geometric prints and suit shapes for the distinguished Perry Ellis brand.
The tailoring palette was douce, underpinned by geometric intarsia prints in teal, mustard and grey which elevated the fabric and fit of jackets. This added to active accents of carrot-shaped pants and jackets in techno wool.
The gunmetal suit and Seventies-print sweater – in a more casual crew neck – paired best with a dark neutral shirt. Or a clash-effect gingham check shirt as pictured – just keep the check small and off-scale. An untucked shirt is a dress code risk for work with a suit but the no tie look isn’t, switching dress shoes for dessert boots in a buttery leather brown – a tonal document folio essential for transporting man-things.
Want a business look that’s in it for the money, honey? Hickey Freeman showcased a collection of updated – and superluxurious – suits, to tempt even the biggest howler on Wall Street.
With the reinvented business suit in a range of new blues – chalk stripe optional, the Manhattan look came accessorised with forest green neckwear, a topical colour in the new season and a welcomed replacement to marsala.
Replicating the look, let the expense come via the details; a richly woven dress shirt in cubic jacquard offering subtle pattern play next to a puzzle print pocket square in darker colours. And in keeping with heritage accessories, tan leather shoes (and clay socks), you’ve brought a bit of nature into the big city.