No other man on Earth is street-style snapped as much as New Yorker, Nickelson ‘Nick’ Wooster.
With a tweaked moustache, silver hair and pocket-rocket height, the former fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman rarely escapes the lens of photographers who scour the streets at fashion week. Today – when he’s not front row at a fashion show, Wooster is still surrounded by men’s fashion, most recently linking up brands Lardini and Woolmark, to launch tailored and softwear collections. Here’s how you can take a page out of this man’s style bible.
Breaking It Down
Describing his style as “the sartorial mullet”, Wooster takes pleasure in being tailored up top and less buttoned-up down below. He offers a definitive militant dandy appeal, too: sometimes dressed as an army corp, other times in bright colour on black.
Overall, Wooster is a well-planned man and despite his fashion rule-breaking, his style is precise. No other gent is as in-touch with his clothes – from seeking quality fabric, to textural play with layers, to the interaction of colour and pattern. Never offending, Wooster lays down the gauntlet to modern gents – challenging style stereotypes without sacrificing masculine taste. Wooster is not merely a fashion icon, he’s a style aficionado.
Lounge-y & Layered
Capitalising on the ‘sartorial mullet’ admission, Wooster takes lounge-y bottoms and works them under tailored tops. From dungeon-deep drop-crotch joggers to relaxed wool trousers sharply cropped at the ankle, the stylist eschews the common slim-fit leg accustomed to the modern gent.
Upstairs, the wintry blazer is sharp and fitted to perfection. Then, it is layered with traditionalism: waistcoat, sweater and button-up shirt – always with a tie and pin. Wooster has a love for comfort and is rumoured to even jump up a half-size with shoes – like his hi-tops and duck boots – for extra room, as well as with his relaxed bottoms.
The second play on formalities from Wooster is the blazer-over-shorts look. Despite the risk of pairing shorts with business attire, the impeccable shape and cut of the short ensure they sit like leg-less suit pants – surprisingly in tune with the tailored aesthetic.
Although this look is not office-ready, Wooster’s maintaining of key corporate elements such as the long-tie and pastel shirt under an always-buttoned jacket is fresh formal styling. Monk shoes (yes, without socks) continue the formal street look. Then, grab a folio holder and jet black shades, but loose the belt.
Not to be mistaken for a minimalist and anti-colourist, the statement blazer is a Wooster-favourite. The man (especially in summer) parades dandy tartan prints over snug-fit blazers in light, breezy cloth. The Christmas red and green check receives subtle feature-competition from pastel shirting layered underneath in rose pink. And his navy and red nautical bow-tie and pocket square are random against the check, but fall in-line with the correlation of the angle of the neckwear stripe against the lapel.
A patchwork tweed and denim blazer in tonal blue is a second favourite of Wooster’s, occasionally spotted as a full suit with matching trousers when a fashion event calls for a bit of Wooster’s old-spice.
Popping & Bright
Again, it’s rare that Wooster will just wear a traditional tailored look. Night or day, pops of colour such as canary yellow or tangerine play-up the bottom half of a suit or as shoes. Brogues and their textural holes make the casual colour work, especially when socks are also left behind. Wooster is known for picking one colour and basing neutral-coloured shirts, jackets and coats from his first choice of hue. And, you’ll rarely see him colour-blocking.
Strong, regimented outerwear is where Wooster’s fascination with wool marches on. Double-breasted military overcoats with pea-style flare lapels are made all-the-more servicemen with brass buttons and shoulder notches. Paired with leather gloves and shawl cardigan, the wool offers contrast against the sheen of the leather and ruggedness of the layers.
Others times, an aviator bomber with fur-trim tops an all-over military green look. Khaki wool pilot trousers come severely tapered from the knee down, over contrast soled tan boots that modernise the at-war attitude of Wooster.
Key Wooster Fashion Items
Thom Browne navy Norfolk jacket for tailored tops, as well as Barena’s navy option. For a textural blazer, Nanamica in French terry is good option in grey marl. For stylish tailoring, Kolor’s double breasted wool suit jacket is great. Acne Studios supplies Wooster’s denim jacket and Club Monaco, his leather. Arc’Teryx for a khaki parka, Gant Rugger for his overcoat and Hardy Amies for shearling bomber.
Kingsmen X Mr Porter meets Wooster’s need for heritage wool, as well as his very own Lardini collaborative suits. His brand favourite, Thom Browne, for its metallic grey suit.
The Thomas Mason X J. Crew white button up is a formal tux option with Oxford shirt from Thom Browne. For a relaxed one, check out the United Arrows X Nick Wooster shirt. Visvim striped tees are a summery choice while layering is easy with Rick Owens’ double layer jersey shirt.
Damir Doma for track pants, Ann Demeulemeester for cropped trousers and anything Japanese and selvage for jeans including 3Sixteen and Momotaro.
White plimsolls from Common Projects, hi-tops from Rick Owens and army boots from Saint Laurent will serve in recruiting Wooster’s style. For dress shoes, Thom Browne crepe sole brogues (worn without socks) are a hit.
Wooster aims high, selecting a Rolex as his timepiece of choice. The next best thing is a Luminox. A quarter-and-an-inch chocolate brown belt from Gucci with a sterling buckle is a must-investment and Oliver Peoples’ Gregory Peck sunglasses will keep things shaded. For travel, the Globe Trotter carry on trolley is functional and fashionable and flies-high in Wooster’s style jet.